A Rough Week

Since I left Santa Rosalia the landscape has become even more amazing  however the conditions this week have been less then friendly.  Bahia Conception was sheltered, mellow, and a great place for novice paddlers. However once I left the bay  and headed around the peninsula that forms it the North winds started to blow and kicked up a swell. This is also the second most remote stretch of coast on this trip. Nobody goes there in boats because there are no anchorages.  The first day wasn't too bad but by the end of the day the swells were building. It was the second day that I will remember for a long time. From camp that morning the water looked unsettled but better than the day before. Once I got out there I discovered that wasn't exactly true. That was also the morning pretty much at the start that I came across a pod of dolphins leaping out of the water. I started to fumble for my GoPro because they were close. It was then that I realized we were on a collision course. I figured they were dolphins and knew what they were doing but they did not notice me. Suddenly one leaped way out of the water and landed within 3 feet of me. I thought it was going to land on me and these things are big. At best I would have capsized, at worst it would have knocked me out. I started to scream at them to get their attention. Unfortunately, the GoPro just comes on as I yell "Don't land on me!"  They finally noticed me and scattered.  That was just the first adrenaline rush of the day. The swells coming from my left rear side kept getting bigger. My butt is basically at water level so when waves get 3 1/2 to 4 feet tall they start blocking my view of the horizon when I am in the trough. These swells were blocking my entire view of the mountains. I thought they were about 6 to 7 feet tall. A sailor I talked to later said 8. By far the biggest waves I have ever paddled in. Not the roughest water (that would have been in Deception Pass in WA) but the tallest. The swells weren't breaking which made all the difference in the world. The problem was the wind kicked up and started making wind waves that were hitting me from the right side. I would surf down a swell which would then cause me to hit a wind wave and throw up a big spray of water into my face. I did notice that this is a lot less frightening when the water is bathtub warm as opposed to the ice cold, 20 min survival time water of Washington. I wanted to get to shore but these same swells were creating a huge surf that looked even scarier then what I was in so I continued. I knew (thought I knew/hoped) that once I got to a certain point that the coast turned south and that should protect me from the swells at least. That was the case and from then on it was a 2 hour grind against a headwind to get to the cove I knew would provide protection. I expected a fish camp but when I got there it is all private property. Luckily the first person I talked to was Scott who was the caretakers son. He took one look at me and said "We can't send you back out there". I looked a little ragged and worn out. He showed me where I could set up camp and then his family proceeded to feed me both lunch and dinner. Once again the "Baja Way" of sharing what you have was shown to me. 

The next two days were windy and rough also. Wet rides each day but nothing of the magnitude of the second day. Other nice people helped. I was invited for coffee on a sailboat anchored under Punta el Pulpito which is one of the most stunning pieces of rock I have seen yet. I paddled through an arch/sea cave. The sailboat was S/V Prairie Oyster with 2 Canadians Jim and Diane. Turns out that they had sailed the South Pacific and had never met my friends Shawn and Ben but they had totally heard of their boat S/V Pangea since it was during the same years (2008 I think). Small world. 

Still waiting to run into another kayaker. I did see some people in day paddlers in Conception Bay fishing from them but no true touring kayaks. I still get the same thing from everyone that hears what I am doing. The Mexicans think I am either crazy or very strong. From the gringos I either get "Hardcore" which translates as "I would like to do something like that" or " Ballsy" which from the tone of voice translates as "You're an idiot". I think they are all right. 

Yesterday I found swarms of bees where I had planned on camping so paddled an extra couple of miles out to Isla Coronados. Much prettier campsite but there they had a rattlesnake relocation program going on. It's been that kind of week. 

The trip continues to be really rough on gear. My tent is ripped, my bathing suit is ripped, both sneakers are blowing out, and my paddle shirt can stand up by itself. It may just spontaneously combust. I may show up in La Paz half naked with nothing but my kayak and a paddle. 

Homestretch. 2 weeks to go. A person can only read, write, nap, and play harmonica so much before he starts to get bored.  More then ready to go adventure with Kathleen. When I hiked the Colorado Trail it was a longer trip but there were people on the trail to talk to pretty much every day and I had friends do parts if it with me (and my dogs). Here it is remote and I can go days without talking to anyone. Gets lonely. Plus I just don't like being separated from Kathleen for this long. At least she and I are about to have one hell of an adventure together.