FidEgan's Fastpacks - Episode 3 - Norwegian Nirvana

John and I are currently on a 2 year trip where we are pursuing our passion of trail running through the various landscapes and environments of the world. As we pass through each country we want to post our top pick for a trail run that we did. This does not mean that this is the best trail to run in that country. It just means that it was our favorite that we did. We are both using Ultraspire Fastpacks to carry our gear, hence the name of the column. We had less than 10 days in both Norway and Sweden (far too short of a time) so this run covers our visit to Scandinavia.  We really wish we had more time to go even further north then we did because the adventure potential in both Norway and Sweden is impressive.  John has also been obsessing over the sea kayaking possibilities. 

Where:  Jotunheimen Nasjonal Park, Norway.  This run took us from the campground at Maurvangen to the trailhead at Gjenesheim, over Besseggen Mountain to Memurubu, and then back along Gjende Lake.
(Google Images)

Facilities/Trailhead:  Jotunheimen National Park is about a 5 to 6 hour drive north from Oslo on good roads.  There are speed cameras everywhere so be careful about the speed limit.  There is a camping site at the park entrance at Maurvangen.  The trailhead is at Gjendesheim where there is a staffed lodge.  A boat travels several times a day to the halfway point at Memurubu (and also travels to the far west end of the lake Gjendebu) for people that want to explore deeper into the mountains.  There are no real stores near here so stock up on supplies at Fagernes on the way there. 

Fees:  The cost to park at the trailhead is 100 Krone ($16).  There is another parking site at the entrance to the park about a mile away that is 60 Krone (~$10).  We were camped a couple of 100 meters from that lot so we just ran from our campsite.  This added a mile to the beginning and end of our run.  You can run the road for this or there is a wet single track that parallels the road.  For people that only want to do half of the loop the cost of the boat one way to (or from) Memurubu is 85 Krone ($13.60).

Terrain/Trials:  This was a true adventure run through some very rugged terrain.  Lots of people do this hike so you won't have the trail to yourself but if injured it would take some time (and probably a helicopter) to rescue you.  Be prepared for weather.  It was sunny when we started and pouring rain at the end. Part of this was runnable trail, parts had to be hiked (steep or very uneven rocks), and there is a section of Class 3 to Class 4 rock scrambling. 

Distance:  The distance from Gjendesheim to Memurubu over Besseggen is 17km (10 1/2 miles).  The return trip along the lake is about 15km (~9 miles).  Running from the campsite at Maurvangen added another mile at both the beginning and end. 

Description:  We ran the trail that paralleled the road to get from the camp ground to the trailhead at Gjendesheim.  All this really did was get our feet wet right at the start.  Next time we probably would run the road which is what we did on the way back.  The trailhead leaves from the parking lot at Gjendesheim. 

 Gjendesheim

We didn't realize that at the time and started up the trail just east of it.  Once we realized our mistake we had to bushwack cross country to get to where we were supposed to be. This added 45 min and another mile or two to our adventure.

Bushwacking

Once on the trail it climbs steeply up the mountain.  In one section there is a chain attached to the rocks to help people along a steep catwalk. 

Ascending the mountain

Most day hikers take the boat out and then hike back so we met a lot of people coming down the mountain due to our late start.  Once on the ridgeline the views start getting better and better.  To the west are tall glaciated peaks and a sea of snow.  To the east are lower mountains but the views are expansive since treeline is much lower than this entire area. 

Ridgeline running

Multiple lakes, rivers, and waterfalls are visible in all directions with the most impressive being the two large lakes on either side of the mountain. 

Expansive views

Rainbow - beautiful but weather was deteriorating

Gjende was on our left and has a distinct green color from the glacial silt while the lake to the right called Bessvatnet is a brilliant blue. 

Sometimes you had to just stop and stare

The route drops very steeply from the summit of Besseggen to the ridge in between the lakes.  This is the rock scrambling section and lasts for probably 1/3 mile.  Most people climb up this but we were going down it (slowly).  It is only one person wide in some spots with steep drop-offs on either side. 

Looking back at 3rd class ridgeline

Only small patches of snow at end of June

The rest of the ridge has a more rolling nature to it and is more runnable.  This eventually winds down to Memurubu where there is another lodge or you can also camp there.  It looked like a great spot to spend a few days relaxing and exploring the nearby valleys and peaks.

Memerubu Lodge

 The return trail follows the lake shore so has much less up and down.  It is narrow and not heavily traveled but was easy to follow. 

Lakeside trail

Halfway back it started to rain heavily on us so we were pretty wet and ready to be done by the time we got back to the pavement.

Other fun facts:  There is a race held that runs from Memurubu over the mountain to Gjendesheim.  The record is 1 hr, 16 min, 48 sec that was set in 1963 by a local Norwegian.  No one has been able to beat the record since then.  The woman's record was also set in 1963 at 1 hr 39 min 47 sec.  Those times are unfathomable to us!  It is also impressive in this day and age when records like this stand for 50 years. 
A boat that takes you deep into the mountains via the lake to an isolated lodge/town reminded us a lot of Lake Chelan and Stehekin for anyone that has explored that part of Washington State.